IIRC, there are 2 pins holding the trigger quard. Slide it out the side at the bottom of the grip noting where it goes at the top where the hammer has a place for it. It should have a leaf type instead of coil spring. If they won't fix it and ya want to try the IJ, Remove the grips. I just got alot slower at doing it with the freaking glaucoma. I just got use to fixing stuff I got at the shows as quickly as I could to turn them over. Bore and cylinders are sharp with no rust or pitting. Got this IJ hammer model in as boot in a swap. I have picked up a few of the IJs and H&Rs in the past year. Just has to have what ya need in it and ya have some spares. By the tire you pay shipping and new parts cost, you may get all ya need front another gun for less bucks. If you can not find a part, you may try buying a whole gun off auction or at a gunshow to get parts. I eventually got tired of fixing stuff on it and got a J frame snub. I gas welded it up and cut new notches by hand using a file. I wore out the rachet on the extractor star later and could not get one. I can't remember for sure, but it may have been held in place by a screw held under the front end of the trigger guard. The other end went in a notch at the front of the trigger. IIRC, it was wedged under the front end of the trigger guard and the frame. They did not have the trigger spring so I mage one out of some thin spring steel. I managed to find a new barrel for it at Numrich. Trigger spring broke on it and he quit using it in the 60's. It had been my dad's BUG to an Official Police in the 50s. I inherited one hammerless such as yours, but in the larger frame, 5 shot. If the trigger can not be manually returned forward, there are other problems. I am assuming the trigger does return forward if you push it and is not locked in the rear position? If it returns, then it is as PshootR said, it just needs a trigger teturn spring. The burn characteristics aren't really that close to BP for my comfort in a gun that isn't all that strong to begin with.Good old nostalgia gun. I don't think I would try Triple 7 or Trailboss. If you were to attempt to custom load for it, CoW shows 9.0 gr of BP (most likely 3F). They were in fact a cheap pocket pistol in the true sense of the term "Saturday Night Special". The metal is of a lower grade than the metal used by Colt, S&W, H&R and many others. These little guns are rather neat to have and all but were never a high quality pistol and are not very durable. Even if a S&W Long will chamber in the cylinder, do not try to fire one out of it. It is most likely a 32 S&W (short) rather than the S&W Long. I wouldn't even attempt a light target load of Bullseye. If it looks obviously out of alignment, it is not safe to fire.Īs others have mentioned, yours is a early model and only safe for low pressure loads (BP or BP equivalents). If it looks reasonably close, it should be safe to fire. To check the timing (with the gun unloaded), cock it, pull the trigger and let the hammer down, keep the trigger pulled and with a light, look down the barrel to see how well the cylinder is lined up with the barrel. The metal and heat treatment used wasn't that great and wear to all 4 components is common.
Wear on any of the four timing items will cause timing issues. For lock up, the bolt catches in the cylinder notches and the cylinder is held in place against the bolt by the hand/pawl against the back of the cylinder. After you fire it and release the trigger, the bolt drops back down and the cylinder can spin. You'll notice that the bolt only pops up when the hammer is cocked.
#Iver johnson 32 s w long free#
The free spinning cylinder is normal for that model.